Roasted bone marrow at Harleys American Grille

Roasted bone marrow at Harleys American Grille (283 Main St., Farmingdale): Chops rule at Harleys American Grille, the new downtown Farmingdale steakhouse, but the restaurant’s roasted bone marrow is just as alluring as the dry-aged steaks here. The kitchen’s bone marrow appetizer is probably the largest I’ve ever encountered, with deep, giving veins of fatty marrow prickling with zesty gremolata and a hint of sweetness from a bacon jam. Smeared on toast, it tastes almost illegal.

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— Corin Hirsch, Newsday